When Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor, designated his daughter Margaret of Austria as his procurator of the Netherlands, she bought a complex of buildings in Mechelen located across the street from the home of his grandchildren, the son and daughters of Margaret’s brother, Philip the Handsome, Duke of Burgundy. The children were Charles, Prince of Luxembourg, (the future Holy Roman Emperor Charles V), his elder sister Eleanor, and two younger sisters Isabella and Mary. In addition to governing the Netherlands, Margaret would be in charge of the upbringing of these children.

The complex at Mechelen would be refurbished to Margaret’s specifications and become her headquarters for the rest of her life. Known as “la Maison de Madame” or the “Hof van Savoy” (Court of Savoy), it included the entire staff of councilors, secretaries and clerks, clerics and artists, ladies and gentlemen in waiting, maids of honor and pages, with their personal servants and the domestic staff, who throughout the day filled the establishment with bustling activity. Margaret took great pride in keeping up an establishment worthy of her rank, living in great luxury and adhering to a punctual schedule.

Of the approximately one hundred and fifty persons who formed the daily entourage of the Regent, only a few lived in the palace itself. Most lived in the city and would await the opening of the palace gates in the morning. Inside, the bakers, poulterers and butchers would begin their work in the kitchens with the laying and lighting the fires.

According to custom, the outside personnel took their midday meal in the palace. They did not all sit down to table at the same time but in separate groups according to the strictest etiquette. The table at which one ate, called “le plat”, represented the measure of dignity at the court of the Regent, as was the custom with all ruling courts during the sixteenth century.

Beginning at noon, Margaret would eat first in the company of her Grand Mistress. If royal guests were present or ambassadors from foreign powers who deserved this honor as representatives of their masters attended, they sat down with the Regent. Sometimes Margaret would invite visitors from all over Europe she wished to introduce to her nephew and nieces. These guests included people such as the Count Palatine Frederick of Bavaria, or others who were related to Charles’ ministers. But for the most part, those who ate at her table were from less exalted families, such as Anne Boleyn, the daughter of an English diplomat who asked Margaret for a place in her household so Anne could become fluent in French.

“Le plat de Madame” had first choice from the elaborate menu, always furnished with the highest quality wines, and every kind of fish, fowl, and game in season. Choices consisted largely of meat dishes, and pastries (oublies or wafers), followed by fruit and cheese. Plates were seldom used and forks not at all. For this reason, bread played an important role in the meal.

Regulations published in 1525 for “les plats de l’hôtel de Madame” prescribed that for her midday meal she receive four rolls to eat (pain de bouche) and six pieces of brown bread for plates (pour ses assietes). Her Grande Mistress had to do with less. She was given one pain de bouche and one plate of brown bread. What remained of Madame’s dinner was eaten by the nobles on duty, called the “maitres d’hôtel” after they had first served their mistress. They were followed by “plat” for the ladies in waiting, one for the maids and female servants of the Grand Mistress, and one for the keepers of the wardrobe, who ate simultaneously but at different tables.

And after that, all sorts of people had their turn, such as the valets, porters, clerks, menservants, the tailor and the drummer. Any sort of interference with the hierarchy was disallowed. If certain nobles set up a table in their own quarters, they were punished with the indignation of Madame and suspended from their functions for a month. The same strict etiquette prescribed that the gentlemen in waiting themselves served Madame and they could not leave their tasks to their assistants unless they were ill or had leave.

The baker had to make the pastry for Madame with his own hands and bring it to the kitchens himself. If they were sent by a boy, the chief cook was instructed to refuse to receive it. Nor could the valets on watch in the private apartments of the Regent leave their duty to a lesser servant if Madame wished to retire, or eat alone in her room, or if she was not dressed or felt indisposed. Madame’s private chambers were a sanctuary to which only a few privileged persons could enter and where Margaret could find rest and refreshment after the fatiguing burdens of her duties as governor.

Further reading: “The First Regent of the Netherlands: Margaret of Savoy” by Eleanor E. Tremayne, “Margaret of Austria: Regent of the Netherlands” by Jane de Iongh, “Emperor: A New Life of Charles V” by Geoffrey Parker